Some train journeys are simply a way to get from one place to another. The Bernina Express is not one of them. This is a ride you plan a trip around, a slow and spellbinding crossing of the Swiss Alps that climbs past glaciers, loops through spiralling viaducts and descends into the palm-lined warmth of northern Italy, all without you lifting a finger. For Hong Kong travellers used to the efficiency of the MTR and the drama of a good skyline, the Bernina Express offers something different: the luxury of doing nothing while some of the most extraordinary scenery on Earth unspools past a panoramic window. It is regularly described as a bucket-list rail journey, and once you have done it, you understand why.

Part of the appeal is that this is not a purpose-built tourist novelty. The Bernina Express runs on the Rhaetian Railway, a genuine, working narrow-gauge network that has connected remote Alpine valleys for well over a century. The most spectacular stretches are recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, honouring both the audacity of the engineering and the way the line sits so gracefully within its mountain landscape. This guide walks you through the route, the highlights, and the practical details, so you can turn a famous name into a confident plan.

The route: from Chur or St. Moritz to Tirano

The classic Bernina Express journey runs between Chur (or, on some services, St. Moritz) in the Swiss canton of Graubunden and the Italian town of Tirano, just across the border in Lombardy. In total it is a relatively short distance as the crow flies, but the train takes several hours because it is busy climbing, curving and generally showing off. Along the way it crosses the Bernina Pass, one of the highest railway crossings in the Alps, linking the German-speaking north with the Italian-speaking south in a single, seamless ride.

What makes the line so remarkable is that it manages these dramatic gradients without cog railway assistance, relying instead on brilliantly engineered curves, loops and tunnels. In a matter of hours you pass from green Alpine meadows and dark pine forest up into a stark, high world of ice and rock around the Bernina massif, then down again through terraced vineyards towards the Mediterranean feel of Tirano. The sense of travelling through several different countries and climates in one afternoon is a large part of the magic.

If you are still mapping out your wider itinerary, it helps to read this alongside our overview of Switzerland's scenic trains, since the Bernina Express and the Glacier Express actually connect at St. Moritz and are often combined into one grand rail adventure.

The engineering highlights you will not want to miss

Certain sights along the Bernina line have become icons in their own right, and knowing what to look for makes the journey even richer.

The Landwasser Viaduct

On the northern section of the wider Rhaetian network, the Landwasser Viaduct is perhaps the most photographed piece of railway in Switzerland. This tall, curving stone bridge sweeps across a gorge and plunges straight into a tunnel carved into a sheer rock face. Gliding across it, you feel suspended in mid-air; seen from below or from a viewpoint, it is a masterpiece of turn-of-the-century engineering that has aged into something that looks almost inevitable in its setting.

The Brusio circular viaduct

On the Italian side of the pass, near the village of Brusio, the train performs one of its cleverest tricks: a spiralling open-air viaduct that loops back on itself in a graceful circle. The railway needed to lose height quickly without steepening the gradient too much, and the solution was to build a curving stone bridge that lets the train corkscrew gently downwards. Watching the front of your own train curve around beneath you is a genuinely delightful moment, and one of the most memorable images of the whole trip.

The high Alpine heart of the line

Near the summit of the route, the landscape opens into a raw, glaciated world of milky turquoise lakes, glaciers and bare peaks. The colours here shift with the seasons and the weather, and on a clear day the reflections in the high lakes are extraordinary. This is the emotional high point of the ride, quite literally, and a reminder that you are crossing one of the great Alpine passes.

Panoramic carriages versus the open-air experience

The signature Bernina Express carriages come with large panoramic windows that curve up into the roofline, giving you sweeping views of the peaks above without having to crane your neck. For most travellers, and especially first-timers, these carriages are the classic way to experience the journey, and seat reservations for them are typically required.

In the warmer months, however, there is a wonderful alternative worth knowing about. On some services and sections, open-air observation cars are attached, letting you feel the mountain air, hear the wheels on the rails and take photographs without any glass or reflections in the way. Keen photographers often plan specifically around these. Availability varies by season and service, so treat it as a lovely bonus to check for rather than a guarantee, and always confirm current details before you build your day around it.

Booking, seats and what to expect on board

The Bernina Express is a scenic service that generally requires a seat reservation in addition to a valid ticket or rail pass, and because it is popular, reserving ahead is strongly advised, particularly in peak summer and around holidays. Many Hong Kong travellers hold a rail pass for their wider trip, and passes of this kind often cover the fare while still requiring you to pay a separate seat reservation for this particular train. To understand how that works, see our explainer on the Swiss Travel Pass.

For exact fares, timetables, reservation windows and the latest service patterns, always check the official sources rather than relying on any single figure you read online. The Swiss railway operator SBB and the tourism portal MySwitzerland.com are the authoritative places to confirm current details, and prices and schedules can change from season to season.

On board, the atmosphere is relaxed and unhurried. There is usually an at-seat food and drink service or a way to buy refreshments, and multilingual information helps you identify the landmarks as they appear. Bring a fully charged phone or camera, but also allow yourself long stretches of simply looking out of the window. It is easy to spend the whole journey taking photographs and forget to actually watch the mountains go by.

Connecting to Italy, and building a bigger trip

One of the underrated joys of the Bernina Express is where it leaves you: Tirano, in Italy. From there you can connect onwards, including towards the shores of Lake Como, making it easy to fold a slice of Italy into a Swiss holiday. This cross-border flexibility is part of what makes the journey feel like such an adventure, and Hong Kong travellers who are already flying long-haul to Europe often appreciate being able to pair two countries in one trip.

Because Switzerland and Italy are both within the Schengen area, crossing between them is typically straightforward, but entry requirements are a matter of current official rules rather than something to assume. HKSAR passport holders should check the latest Schengen visa-exemption position before travelling; our guide on visas for Hong Kong travellers explains what to verify and where.

On the Swiss side, the Bernina Express slots neatly into a Graubunden and eastern Switzerland itinerary. Elegant St. Moritz and the wider Engadin valley reward a night or two, whether you are hiking in summer or enjoying the snow in winter. For inspiration on where else to go, browse our roundup of Switzerland's top destinations.

Practical tips for Hong Kong travellers

  • Choose your direction and season thoughtfully. Travelling from north to south (Swiss Alps down into Italy) gives a satisfying sense of descending into warmth. Summer brings green meadows and possible open-air cars; winter offers snow-blanketed drama. There is no wrong choice, only different moods.
  • Reserve early. Seat reservations for scenic services can sell out in peak periods. Book as soon as your dates are firm.
  • Pack for changing conditions. Even in summer, the high Bernina Pass can feel cool. A light jacket is wise, especially if you plan to use any open-air section.
  • Mind the time change and jet lag. Flying in from Hong Kong, you may arrive tired. Consider scheduling this journey a day or two into your trip so you can properly enjoy it awake.
  • Verify everything current. Fares, timetables, reservation rules and border requirements all change. Confirm via MySwitzerland.com, SBB and official visa sources close to your travel date.

The Bernina Express earns its reputation. It is comfortable, it is achievable, and it delivers scenery that genuinely lives up to the photographs, without asking you to hike, climb or brave the cold to reach it. For a Hong Kong traveller wanting one unforgettable, low-effort, high-reward day in the Alps, few experiences compete. Settle into your seat, let the mountains rise around you, and enjoy one of the great railway journeys of the world. When you are ready to plan the rest, our complete guide to Switzerland for Hong Kong travellers ties everything together.